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    衛生紙與火車
    來源:《讀者》2005年第4期    時間:2012/9/11    閱讀:6241次

    作者:[韓國]柳時和著 陳香華譯 

      已經是十月了,印度孟買(Bombay)的街頭還是艷陽高照。為了消暑,我找到了水龍頭想沖一把臉,印度因為天氣酷熱,在公共場所都有水龍頭,供一般民眾沖涼。

      當我將行李背包放下,彎著腰準備要沖水時,忽然有位印度男子走過來。不吭一聲目中無人似地竟然翻起我的背包,把我嚇了一跳,還沒來得及問原因,他已經將背囊中的一卷衛生紙掏出拿走。在印度衛生紙是屬于奢侈品,印度人習慣方便后在洗手間用水沖洗,一般洗手間內沒有置放衛生紙的習慣,所以我在背包里隨時帶著手紙備用。

      眾目睽睽之下,這樣的舉動,讓人無法相信怎么會發生。剛開始以為是碰到神經病,但并不是,一氣之下叫住了他,問為什么隨便拿別人的東西?那男子停住腳步轉過頭來,神情自然地看著我說:

      “你問為什么拿走這東西嗎?我只不過暫時保管一下罷了!”

      是亞熱帶沉悶的陽光吧,聽了他說的話差點沒昏倒,就像腦袋里一片空白,又吹進一股颯颯的涼風。印度人這樣的邏輯思想,過去我曾在許多有關冥想的書中讀過。

      “這衛生紙不是我的,即使是屬于我,也不能說是我的,‘我的’這句話在這世界上不存在。”

      從一個印度男子口中聽到那樣的話,確實是讓人昏眩。男子就這樣拿走了衛生紙,留下愣住在噴出自來水水龍頭前的我。

      我有些火大,但不得不自我安慰“對,都拿走吧,不是我的,我只不過是暫時保管的,都拿走吧!”

      話說如此,我還是趕緊把剩下的衛生紙藏好,免得再被人拿走,反正還在背包里的就是我的。

      幾天以后,我打算從孟買出發到阿格拉市(Agra)。在送給售票員原子筆禮物以后,好不容易才買到需坐40小時二等車廂座位的車票。上車以后,我找了靠窗戶邊的位子,火車是兩排相向的座位,在對面的座位坐了三個人,靠我這邊也是三個人。除了我以外全是當地人,纏繞頭巾的印度人,從頭到腳目不轉睛地注視著我,長相像老鷹的錫克人。夜行的火車,緩緩地停靠每一站前進。

      不久,上來了一個印度男子,看到座位還留有一點空隙,仿佛是自己的位子般,毫不客氣便一屁股地擠靠在我們中間,座位由原來的3人變成4人。過了幾站,又來了一個男子,也是不分青紅皂白地擠著就坐下,原來3人的座位,現在是5個人擠成一堆。不過才出發兩個小時,還有漫長的三十幾個小時,我的背已無法靠著座背,被擠到縮著身子,臉必須靠著車窗趴著,不知不覺累得睡著了。朦朧之中,不由自主地身體往后靠時,忽然感覺碰到什么,睜開眼一看,嚇了一跳,讓人無法相信,因為在我背后與椅背之間狹小的空間,不知什么時候又擠進了一個印度男的。

      我跳了起來,無法忍受買了車票,竟然還要受到這種待遇。像這樣坐三十幾個小時的車,還不如干脆下車算了。于是從口袋里掏出車票,拿給了那幾個毫無道理霸占位子的印度人看。

      “看看這張車票,這是我的位子,請你們起來到別的地方,這是我的位子,我要坐在這里。”

      其中一個年紀看來約50歲左右,長相平凡的男子,抬著頭說:

      “是嗎?你憑什么說這是你的位子?你不過是暫時坐著,不是也要下車的嗎?難道你打算永遠地坐在這里嗎?”

      好像被人捶了一記,我的嘴巴被堵住般,什么話也回答不了。只不過是想按著車票入座,竟是這么困難的事。但再想想那男子說的話也沒錯,不過是暫時坐了就要下車,何苦大發雷霆,主張那位子是屬于自己的呢?

      還有一次讓我印象深刻的經驗是在舊德里街上購物時發生的事。喜馬拉雅山的居民約有半年因為積雪的關系對外交通中斷,因此這段冬眠期間內,居民在家中制作各種刺繡品或銀制手工藝,準備販賣給觀光客。我在舊德里街上,看到這些工藝品非常喜歡,想買幾件帶回去。一問價錢,一個印度青年瞧著我打量,看得出他也知道我不是初到印度的觀光客。但奇怪的是開了1000盧比,相當韓幣30000元(約25美元),在當地算是天價,也許他把我當作是有錢的日本觀光客。我當然不愿作冤大頭,于是回應他:

      “100盧比!”

      青年馬上說:“150盧比!”即使是從1000盧比降到150盧比,臉上表情一點也沒有變化。

      “70盧比!”

      我再往下殺價。

      “110盧比!”青年讓步了一點,說已經降到成本價了。

      當然我不會退讓,再度你來我往之后,最后以70盧比成交。原來1000盧比的價錢,竟然能用70盧比買到,我頗為沾沾自喜,相信在旅行之中,也能記上一筆。當他把東西包裝好交給我時,我心情十分愉快地打算轉身離去。

      就在那時,印度青年拍了我的肩膀,說:

      “Are you happy?”

      你快樂嗎?是因為東西買得便宜快樂嗎?如果是快樂到底有多快樂呢?而快樂能維持多久呢?他的意思應該是如此。

      一時我被問倒了,又是一陣昏暗,站在那里無法移動腳步。我轉身問他為什么那樣問我?

      他說:

      “你快樂的話我也快樂,但如果你不快樂,不管走到哪里問題都是在于你。”

      青年說完話以后,兩眼看著我。在他的凝視中,我感受到自以為聰明,費盡心機買到便宜的東西,竟無法百分之百、有信心地說自己是非常快樂的。

      那以后不管我在印度歷經了多少次施行,得到多少學習,但這三件事給我的啟示,卻永遠無法忘懷。不管我到什么地方,做什么,他們的話,總是清晰地盤旋在耳際。

     


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